To Do as the French Do?

Sitting here, listening to the Tangled soundtrack (I admit, I love most Disney movies and their music), I have been reflecting on some different behaviors and social norms that I have noticed in France, or some individual French people whom I've observed during my first week.

First of all, MANY people smoke. It's pretty excessive, granted they smoke outside, something for which I am very thankful, but so many people do it. Friends who have been to France warned me to not come back a smoker, and now I understand why. Maybe it's a practice to keep them warm? When one sees a woman walking down the street in a dress, one pair of stockings and one (light) coat, smoking and it's well below freezing, one has these wonders.

 Regardless of the reason, it is much more acceptable here. Today, I saw an elderly woman walk passed a group of college students, smile, and say Bonjour, les petits fumers (Hello, little smokers) I actually laughed aloud at the comment. In the US, many people are quick to judge anyone who brings a cigarette to their lips, but it's not a problem in these parts. My two cents says, relax whichever way is best for you, but don't take offense if I stand far away, trying not to cough. I've tried smoking, can't do it, my body doesn't let me. Half-way through an inhale, a coughing fit ensues and ceases to cease for several minutes.

Another social norm that I have noticed, PDA is definitely acceptable here. Aside from the high school and college students who mack on each other waiting at the tram station (that is common in the US too), I've seen adults do it, in a cafe! My second day, when my host parents took me to the market and then to have galettes and coffee, I had seen a couple who were selling aged sheep's cheeses at the market. 

Building inside the Castle Grounds

They both had incredibly strong, stereotypical French features, almost like caricatures. The woman had very dark hair with a small pointy chin and high cheek bones. She was petite and had cat-shaped, dark hazel eyes. Think mid-40's version of Belle from Beauty and the Beast. The man had a very long face, a strong jaw and chin, deep-set blue eyes, large cheek bones, and very long, light hair. They were such a striking couple, of course I noticed them when they walked into the cafe. 

They sat at the table behind ours and were oriented so that I could see them perfectly between my host dad and the family friend who had joined us. While we were conversing, and I was trying to keep up with the conversation, I saw them start mackin' all over each other. I looked at my host mom, who sitting by me could see them very clearly, to see if she would react. She didn't, she didn't seem to notice, so I did what I could to not pay attention, but when one is not used to seeing certain behaviors, it's nearly impossible to divert one's attentions from the displays. 

She practically ended up in his lap and parts of his face ended up stained from her lipstick. I thought it was hilarious, but I guess happy for them that they are "so in love" (or lust). Same thing, right? That is probably an extreme case though, because that was the only time that I've seen middle-aged people be that affectionate in public, I've observed mostly youth being so amorous, but who knows? 

I find it ironic that in the US, especially the South, this would be incredibly uncomfortable for anyone in the vicinity, but we have common expressions like, Whatever blows your dress up, darlin'. Maybe it's just my inner psychologist-wanna-be protruding and making me think, either way it's all incredibly entertaining, and a bit enlightening.

  

There is also much less sense of stress and hurry here. There was the grand-city sense when I was in Paris, but in Caen, life seems to move much more slowly. All of my professors are late. Everyday they are late. It's perfect, because those of you who know me, know that I slide into my chair just as class begins and show up late to social gatherings, (but I am always early or on time to work, mind you). My fiancé and roommate cannot STAND being late. They break a sweat and watch the clock if they are not 10 minutes EARLY to anything. I love it, they keep me in line ;) 

All week long, one can sit in a cafe and see people one knows, like any small town. Many people who run into each other, who were going to spend their day walking around downtown, often go to get coffee or something to eat right then. No call me later kind of thing. It's pretty sweet, I wish that were possible in the US. Oh! and bread. Bread is sacred in France. People will stand in line forever at their favorite bakery, just to buy two fresh baguettes every day. It is SO worth it though!    

Overall, I've noticed that, in this town at least, people work hard and try to work with something that they love, but they appreciate small things and take time to relax and enjoy la joie de vivre. An appreciation that I will desperately try to absorb into my soul, even after I return to the US.